Spring and summer mean that we are getting outside more and going on walks and hikes. I love having a purse with me so I can wear my comfy leggings on our hikes but then I don’t have pockets! Not to mention that my daughters little outfits don’t have pockets EVER. That’s okay though because it just means I get to crochet fun little purses and pouches to solve this problem!
I wanted to create something that was easy open and closed for Autumn and also a quick make so created this purse to have a drawstring that functions both for closing the purse and as the strap. Autumn can wear it securely across her body so I am not having to constantly help her put it back on her shoulder but she can also easily open it to store away flowers, sticks and rocks she might collect on our outings.
As an adult, it’s just the right size to hold my phone, keys and money/cards but not so bulky that it’s in the way or uncomfortable to carry for long periods of time. The fact that the strap also functions as the closure means that while it’s hanging, the weight of the contents are keeping it securely closed as I chase my toddler or even carry her if she gets tired.
I have also included the pattern to make a tiny little coin purse sized version! This is so cute and can be used to store away anything from coins to rock collections to even stitch markers! I think I might love the tiny version even more than the full size purse!
I hope that you enjoy both of these patterns and I would LOVE to see what you’ve made. If you share photos on Instagram you can tag me @woodland.stitchcraft so that I can see your makes and even share them!
Woodland Treasures Purse
H Hook/5 mm or hook needed to obtain gauge
E Hook/3.5 mm for creating the tie of coin purse
Approximately 120 yards of worsted weight yarn for full size and 30 yards for coin size (I used Plymouth Yarns Hannah)
4 Stitch Markers
Full Size Purse: 5.5” wide and 8” tall.
Coin Purse: 3.5” wide and 4” tall.
hhdc – 16 sts and 13 rows = 4”
Gauge is important to your project so your finished piece will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The hook size for the pattern is based on what I used, but gauge can vary from person to person and be affected by yarn. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make 4”, try using a smaller size hook; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook. The pattern also provides measurements to obtain for a specific size. Using a combination of matching gauge and measuring, as closely as possible, should get you close to the desired size.
Stitches and Abbreviations:
ch(s) – chain(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
sk – skip
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
hhdc – herringbone half double crochet (yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop and through first loop on hook, yo, pull through two loops)
blo – back loop only
v-st – v-stitch (Work a hdc, ch 1, hdc all in the same st)
rnd(s) – round(s)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
Beginning chains do not count as stitches.
Third loop will be located on the back of the hhdc or inside of purse.
Joins are worked with a slip stitch in the top of the first stitch of round.
Repeats are marked with * on either side.
Purse is worked bottom up.
Strap also functions as the cinch for keeping the purse closed.
Disclaimer: You may sell any items made from this pattern but do not sell, alter, rewrite or share this pattern. If you choose to sell your finished piece please give credit to my shop: Woodland Stitchcraft (etsy.com/shop/WoodlandStitchcraft) or my Instagram: @woodland.stitchcraft. Please use your own pictures for your posts, ads, or listings.
Full Size Purse:
Rnd. 1: Working in the back hump of the ch, hhdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, flip and work back the other direction along your beginning ch, hhdc blo in each across, do not join. (40)
You will work in continuous rnds for the next 9 rnds. I suggest using a st marker to keep track of your rnds.
Rnd. 2-9: Hhdc in each st around. (40)
Rnd. 10: Hhdc in each st around, remove stitch marker, sc next st, sl st next, fasten off.
Use an invisible join to close the rnd. (40 hhdc, 1 sc)
Rnd. 11: Working with RS out, attach yarn to the third loop (which will be on the inside of the purse) of the hhdc under the sl st, ch 1, v-st in the same third loop, *sk 1, v-st next third loop* rep around 18 more times, sk last 2 sts, join. (20 v-sts)
Rnd. 12-25: Ch 1, v-st in each ch 1 sp around, join. (20 v-sts)
Optional Structure Instructions:
These instructions are to help with stretching. This is completely optional.
Fasten off leaving app. 100” of a tail.
Flip your purse inside out. Lay it flat and place stitch markers in a couple places along the fold. This is so you have a guide to help you keep the surface stitches straight and going along the edge where they will be better hidden on the outside of your bag.
Pull your working yarn through the closest v-st and then use your hook to pull a working loop through on the fold of the inside of the purse.
You will now slip stitch or surface crochet through the stitches down the fold of your bag. Go through any spot on the bag and try to keep your stitches in a straight line and going along the fold.
Work stitches until you get to the end of the v-sts, pull your yarn all the way through like a fasten off, then go under and across the next hhdc, keep the loop on your hook while you pull the working yarn back to the outside of the bag. This skips over the surface loops from the third loop round that create that cut in the design so you don’t compromise that feature.
Work stitches until the edge of the bag, then work stitches along the bottom, then up the other side of the bag until the end of the hhdc section, pull your yarn all the way through like a fasten off, then go under and across the next v-st, keep the loop on your hook while you pull the working yarn back to the outside of the bag.
Work stitches until the top of the bag. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Adult- Ch 281, sl st into 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Child- Ch 181, sl st into 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
You can make the strap as short or as long as you would like for however you wish to wear your bag. These counts were long enough for myself and my daughter to wear the bags cross body style. The strap is thin enough to also tie a knot in the top to make shorter if needed.
I wove the strap through the 4th round from the top of v-sts. Going under one and over two starting in the middle of the front only changing this pattern to go over 4 v-sts in the middle of the back, that will be the section you will pull up to be the strap. Then I lined up the ends and tied a knot about 3” up the strap and cinched the purse shut. You now have a new purse! Enjoy!
Rnd. 1: Working in the back hump of the ch, hhdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, flip and work back the other direction along your beginning ch, hhdc blo in each across, do not join. (24)
You will work in continuous rnds for the next 3 rnds. I suggest using a st marker to keep track of your rnds.
Rnd. 2-4: Hhdc in each st around. (24)
Rnd. 5: Hhdc in each st around, remove stitch marker, sc next st, sl st next, fasten off.
Use an invisible join to close the rnd. (24 hhdc, 1 sc)
Rnd. 6: Working with RS out, attach yarn to the third loop (which will be on the inside of the purse) of the hhdc under the sl st, ch 1, v-st in the same third loop, *sk 1, v-st next third loop* rep around 10 more times, sk last 2 sts, join. (12 v-sts)
Rnd. 7-13: Ch 1, v-st in each ch 1 sp around, join. (12 v-sts)
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
With E hook, ch 110 tightly, fasten off. Weave the tie in and out of the 3rd row from the top of v-stitches starting in the middle of the front and all the way around back to where you started. Tie in a bow and you’re done! You now have a matching little coin purse!